Epilogue (Part 2) THE END

Seat 41G sounds like an aisle seat doesn't it? Well, first the bad news... on United Flight 882, Seat 41G may be an aisle seat, but it is located smack dab against a white wall three quarters of the way back in economy class. This spot prevents "the sitter" from making any seat adjustments during the 11 plus hour flight. No lounging for Joan as she retraced the 6,283 miles back to Chicago! However, now for the good news...

Seated in 41 E and F were two young Chinese graduate students flying to the University of Illinoiz to begin an MBA Program. And they couldn't have been sweeter! Both very nervous, but oh so excited to be traveling to the United States for the first time. As I had struggled with chop sticks, so they struggled using a fork to eat their airplane meals! Wearing matching plaid shirts, they were recently engaged and wondered about the possibility of getting married in America! As the hours wore on, we had time to share stories, and before we landed I had given them my e-mail address and told them to feel free to contact me in the coming months. As we prepared to deplane, I noticed Yin digging around in her carry-on, and the next thing I knew she was presenting me with a lovely wooden box containing a glass vial. "You are our first American friend. We hope you will come to our wedding!" And just like that, the long flight home in the unadjustable seat didn't seem all that bad!!

As I write these words, I have been home for just over one week. Yesterday, I received an e-mail from Yin and a couple of photos taken that day. Her words encapsulate much of what I feel about my experience in China. She writes:







Dear Joan,

I'm Yin Zhang, the person sitting next to you when we flied to Chicago.
It's an awesome flight to be with you, and it will become our precious
memory that will be with us forever.

With an anxious mood, we started our journey of lives. Everything is new
and unfamiliar. However, God let us meet with you by chance, and you let
our anxiety into excitement. You gave us warmth and made us confident to
enjoy all matters presented by the country. Thank you.

One week passed, and everything went along the desired way. We made many new friends. I feel that the United States is the big family for people
from all over the world. I love it so much. Also, we met with our
professors who are very kind and patient. Next week we will start our fall
semester, and it will be a new challenge for us.

Attached is the photograph of our sweet memory.
Thank you very much.

Best wishes,
Yin

It was with an anxious mood I started my journey to China. Everything was new and unfamiliar. However, God let me meet many wonderful people along the way and led my anxiety to excitement. They gave me warmth and made me confident to enjoy all matters presented by the country.

This is Joan from China signing off for now.... Please look forward to upcoming adventures...

Zai Xian!


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Location:On the plane from Tokyo to Chicago

Epilogue (Part 1)

I'm waiting to board Flight 956 to Tokyo for the first leg of the journey home. Airports can be a bit stressful when they are unfamiliar. The taxi dropped me off at Terminal 3 and helped me find a luggage trolly. Then the Information Receptionist pointed to Check in area D26. My passport wouldn't scan, so a Nipon employee checked me in... (Hadn't checked flights since June, so was relieved that nothing had changed!) Then it was down a flight of stairs and onto an airport tram to Terminal E. It was here that I officially got my passport stamped and said Zai Jian to China! Almost immediately there was a security check and a complete body scan. My iPad had its own container.

Once thorough security, I used my remaining RMB to buy a Costa Coffee and an almond croissant before heading to gate E27. So glad to be at this point, and thought I'd do a little writing. Now, where had I put my iPad..??

Oh No!! It's not here! It must be back at security. So much for the relaxing cup of coffee. In a burst, I flew down the terminal and tried to recall which black haired woman had frisked me! I had to walk around and get in for a closer look! And there she was, and next to her was some man trying to figure out whose iPad this might be. Xie, Xie!!!! They didn't hesitate when they handed it over! So now, here I am, back at Gate 27 and about to enjoy my now properly cooled coffee!

On the plane, I sat next to a young Chinese man traveling to the U.S. for the first time. He will do graduate work at Arizona State. He is from Hunan, and yesterday his parents accompanied him to Beijing on the train. They spent the night together and saw him off at the airport this morning. He is their only child and they won't see him again for at least two years. This is his first trip out of China! I can only imagine how those parents are feeling. I shared my mini bottle of white wine with him and we toasted his success. (I remember my first trip to Europe as an eighteen year old and the kindness of a scary looking Frenchman who of all the people in the waiting area happened to be seated next to me. I remember we shared a glass of wine!) Also, gave him my e-mail address and a new five dollar bill to buy a treat in the U.S.!

Another bit of excitement in Tokyo. I've been hand carrying a large blank scroll for this special artist friend of mine. When I went through security, they said it was too long, and I couldn't take it. Couldn't take it??? I explained that this was a special gift, and I had to come with me. I was certain it would fit perfectly in the overhead bin, and I was sure United Airlines wouldn't mind! "Sorry, it's too long." I explained how I've carried this package from Hongzhou to Yuyao, from Yuyhao to Shanghai, from Shanghai to Beijing and now to Tokyo. I simply can't just leave it here. I didn't pack it because I didn't want it to get smashed.

Well, one of the security guards took pity on me and asked his assistant to fill out a form. Package in hand, she then escorted me to the United ticket counter. I was sure the rest would be a piece of cake. Wrong!! Now, the scroll had to be rolled in plastic and checked. The Japanese agent apologized saying this wasn't a United policy, it was a policy of the Japanese government. I wasn't about to argue with the Japanese government, so now I have a 3rd claim check. All I can say is if this scroll arrives safely in Minneapolis, I hope that it turns into one fine piece of art!!
Abrigato!
Joan



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Location:Beijing Airport, August 14, 2012 7:20 a.m.

Last Day in China and It's a Good Thing

I think God is telling me party over, time to go home. This morning I left the hotel around 9:00 a.m. after getting directions on how to walk to the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Supposedly it was about a 20 minute trek... I really wasn't up for coping with a crowded metro....

My first warning that perhaps the day would not go exactly as planned was when I made the mistake of ordering an egg McMuffin from a McDonald's along the way, and it came covered with ketchup! I took one bite and threw the rest away. Don't eat at McDonalds in Beijing!

Turning right at the Beijing Hotel, I was once again on my way. Apparently, I attract strangers!! A man on my left struck up a conversation. He was about my age,seemed nice enough, and turned out to be a retired teacher of calligraphy and painting at the University. He was on his way to an art show exhibiting students' work. At least that's what I believed. Yes, he was walking in the direction of the Forbidden City... the art exhibit was on the way. The next thing I knew, I was walking into a shop with original scrolls covering the walls. My new friend started to explain a few of the pieces when a tall, young man interrupted and continued to do the talking. He was very animated and his English was great. He was one of the students and his original scrolls of the Four Seasons were beautiful. He had a running commentary of many of the other pieces as well, and I truly enjoyed his explanation of some art representing the wisdom of Confucius.

Of course, today being the last day of the exhibit, everything was half-price. I could buy his original work, "his very best work", '7 layers of work"....
It was very beautiful... John, I can hear you groaning right now,and saying,
"Oh,no... you didn't do it!" I admit it, I felt cornered... he really wanted to sell me all 4 seasons, and I told him I couldn't afford 4. O.K. he could sell me two seasons, his very best work!! One thing I have learned and do believe is that Ying and Yang are very important in China, and it is bad luck to break up a pair! Well, it is original art, and it is very beautiful, and he told me I would give him confidence if he knew his art was hanging in America. Anna, Sam... how would some beautiful Chinese scrolls look in your apartment???

Leaving the shop with two scrolls under my arm, I could feel my blood pressure higher than normal. My 'so-called' friend accompanied me what was at least a mile to the entrance of the Forbidden City. The crowd entering the area was thick and ticket lines were long. As expected, a young Chinese woman appeared and asked to be my guide. If I were going to get anything out of the Forbidden City, I knew I needed some help. So, I said goodbye to the professor??? and hello to Sunny (Give you a sunny day). I told her I only wanted a one hour tour. Part of the deal was that I had to purchase her admittance ticket in addition to my own. Unfortunately, one of the 50 RMB bills I gave her to purchase the tickets, was fake!! I couldn't believe it... So far, I'm up to 250 counterfeit RMBs...

Sunny spent a long time in the toilet before we got going, and I wondered if she was feeling so sunny. It was so hot, and the buildings are so spread out, and there were so many people that I really didn't care if I saw where the emperor slept or not. She told me a few things about the place, but I was rapidly losing my energy, and wanted out, forbidden or not! So, we retraced our steps, Sunny leading me out of the gate and into Tiananmen Square. I took a few pictures of Mao, tried to imagine students demonstrating in front of the flagpole and then was relieved to say goodbye. Can you believe I was happy to be going down into the metro!!! Shows you what kind of state I was in...
I had to be back at the hotel by 1:30 for a Tour of the Hutongs!

Hutongs are a maze of old neighborhoods throughout old Beijing. The guide said that if all of the streets of the hutongs were connected the length would surpass the length of The Great Wall! A couple from Israel were my companions. The tour included a visit to the drum tower. 12 people beat a series of huge drums to help people keep track of time. We also enjoyed a tea ceremony and a pedicab ride. All very nice, but clearly created for tourists. Having spent extended time in Yuyao, I appreciate that my experience there was a true slice of life and not one created to make money!

As the sun was setting, I took a stroll down a few side streets not far from the hotel and ended up enjoying a plate of Chinese broccoli, beef and rice as my final dinner in China. A glass of The Great Wall white wine tasted very good!

And now it's time to pack and see if I can squeeze all my treasures into the black duffel bag! I leave the hotel tomorrow morning at 5:30 to begin the 22 hour trip home! I leave on the 14th and get home on the 14th! And I will be glad to be there.

Xai Jian!
Joan



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Location:Destination Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square

An Afternoon at the Silk Market

Since arriving in China, I have looked forward to going to its famous Silk Market. This is a place that sells famous name -brand knockoffs. I was told numerous times to bargain aggressively for all types of garments, shoes, bags, watches and pearls. The best of TJ Max, all under one roof sounds like my kind of place!

I am happy to report that I took the Metro to the Silk Market and spent several hours feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the shops and vendors trying to entice passerby. Each salesperson insists that for you they make best price, or that today is no good day so make good price, or you very strong... I know you teacher, I give you best price...

I found a few things I couldn't live without, and then was happy to sit down in a comfortable chair and have a manicure and a 30 minute foot massage!

The silk market is a great place to go if you're not looking for anything in particular and are ready to walk away. When in Beijing,, it is definitely worth a visit to the Silk Market!


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Location:Line 1, Get off at Yong An Li

Riding the Metro In Beijing (Part 2)

A very nice woman and her son started up a conversation shortly before arriving at the Summer Palace stop. They, too, were on a holiday. I love watching mothers with their sons. The fact that a mother can have only one child if the firstborn is a son makes them such an adored prize. Sam, don't worry, you are an adored prize!! ( If the firstborn is a daughter, parents may try for a second child.) This mother made sure her son's backpack was arranged comfortably on his shoulders, and as soon as we got outside, she put a yellow cap on his head and some clip on sun glasses over his glasses. I'd say he was around 11 years old.


Anyway, there were crowds everywhere and vendors hawking touristy items. Lots of food on a stick, rolled up pancakes with an egg, sweet potatoes and lots of drinks. Entering the main gate to the Palace, I saw four long lines waiting to buy entrance tickets. Oh boy...

Then, what to my wondering eyes should appear, but a smiling young man who asked, "Where are you from? Do you need a guide?' For 180 RMB his girlfriend would give me a personal guided tour. Considering the alternative, I said, "O.K." At first, Jeeny was very quiet, and I briefly wished I had brought along my counterfeit RBM's! However, as our walk continued, she became more confident. She is a student at a university in Beijing and she and her boyfriend give tours to make money during their summer holiday. I would never have wandered through the maze of the palace or seen as many things without her.

Of special note was the Temple of Wisdom which, on its surface, is covered with 1111 small budhas. Remember the #1 stands for power. During the mass student protest in 1989, all of these budha heads were destroyed. Today, the newer looking heads on ancient bodies are evidence of restoration.

Jeeny also told me about the Dragon Queen. She was in power when Chairman Mao assumed power in China. Although she had a son, she loved to rule, and he never became emperor. (Reminds me a bit of Queen Elizabeth!) During her reign she had a huge marble ship built in one of the lagoons. The water surrounding the ship represents the common people. Under normal conditions, rough waters can overturn a ship, however this marble ship will never be overturned! The Dragon Queen ruled China for 50 years.

Beyond the main entrance is a lovely bridge covering a lagoon. The emperor loved the city of Suzhou, but as his mother was ill, he could not visit there as often as he liked. So, he had a replica of this city created on the Summer Palace grounds.

A beautiful cloisonné exhibit houses some of the intricately designed urns, and jewelry of the period. Lots of winding paths, large rock formations and beautifully painted buildings. I bought an Empress bracelet!

And then it was time to pay up and say good bye. I made it back to Line 4 and, retraced my route! But, I didn't go directly back to Novotel...
Line 1 also stops at the Silk Market, , Beijing's most famous, indoor market where bargaining is the name of the game!

Yi huier jian!
Joan



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Location:The Summer Palace

Riding the Metro in Beijing... on a Sunday! (Part 1)

When I learned from Ms. Tour Guide Angel that EVERYBODY can ride the metro in Beijing for only 2 RMB, I decided to try it. Nadia, the concierge at Novotel Peace told me I would have to change lines twice, and she was very helpful about writing down the names of each stop both in English and in Chinese! One thing Nadia didn't mention was how many people ride the Beijing metro on the weekends! Yesterday, Angel told EVERYBODY that Beijing has a population of 22 million, but I didn't appreciate the significance of that number until after my metro experience today.

Line 5 was busy but doable. I checked my directions to make certain I was heading toward Dongdan where I was to make my first transfer. So far so good. Didn't find a seat on Line 5, but I was getting off after one stop. From Line 5, I was to transfer to Line 1. In order to find Line 1, I had to go up an escalator, down a long hall, around a corner, another long hall and then down an escalator... Well, let me say this... the stream of people was fast becoming a mass of people. In every direction, body to body. I was able to determine that I needed to get on the train to my left along with hundreds of other people. Lines mean little in the Beijing Metro. As the doors of the train opened, the crowd surged forward carrying me with it! Seriously, I found myself inside, locked between bodies on every side. A man's arm was up over my shoulder holding onto a steal bar, and I kept feeling a knee pushing into my bum... at least I think it was a knee!! My camera was in my purse, but I couldn't get at it because I couldn't move my right arm. And I do believe, I was the only Caucasian in the lot!

There were at least 12 stops on Line 1 before I was able to push my way out and head to Line 4 which would take me to the Summer Palace. Riding the metro in Beijing is very cost effective, but it requires fortitude!
I was quite relieved to exit the Metro Station... I was ready to visit the quiet gardens and lakes of the Summer Palace... what I saw was that all my new friends from the Metro had a similar idea.


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Location:Dengshikou Station Line 5 to the Summer Palace

Alone in Beijing with a Peking Duck

After climbing The Great Wall, I had built up an appetite. When I asked the concierge where I should go for dinner, he suggested Peking Duck! Well, when in Rome..., so off I went to try one of many area restaurants that feature this most famous dish.

When I walked in, the lobby was crowded with Chinese people which I took to be good sign. I asked for a table for one and was given a number and, shown that it would be a 45 minute wait. People in the lobby were watching the Olympic Diving Competition, so I found a stool and sat down. I was afraid I wouldn't hear my number being called, but there was a scroll above the TV that had the numbers in both Chinese and English.

Clearly this is a popular place and many family groups were waiting to go in. When I was seated in the colorful dining room, the waitress brought me a menu. I told her I wanted the Peking Duck! She showed me the page in the menu.. and I ordered half a duck. (John, this was your kind of place, and I wish you had been here to eat the other half!). The waitress told me the duck would take 45 minutes to prepare. Well I had my Beijing Travel Book and figured I could do a little reading while I waited. I also ordered a Pindow (beer)!

As I waited for my meal, I noticed a number of waiters in tall white hats rolling carts laden with golden Peking Ducks to various tables throughout the dining room. The server would then carefully carve the duck tableside.




When a server arrived near my table, i figured it was my turn. The first thing he did was to remove some of the crispy brown skin, slice it thin, and place it on a plate. The waitress then presented this plate along with a tiny bowl of white sugar in front of me! Using chop sticks, you dip a piece of the skin into the sugar before putting it in your mouth! MMM delicious.

Then he proceeded to slice up one-half of the bird gently placing the slices on a plate. The waitress then demonstrated how to roll the meat into a very thin pancake along with slivered white onions and a deep Hoisin sauce.

After about 4 of these pancakes, I was quite satisfied! I really needed a friend to help me finish them off. Dining solo is not my first choice, especially when eating Peking Duck in Beijing!

On the way back to the Novotel, I stopped at Hagan and ordered a scoop of Dulce de Leche! It hit the spot.

Tomorrow, it's on to The Summer Palace and the Silk Market!
Zai Jian,
Joan

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Location:Downtown Shanghai August 11, 2011