Where do I begin? After a breakfast of soupy rice with squash (I had so thought they were peaches!!) a couple of pieces of sponge cake and a glass of hot milk, we boarded our mini-bus and headed out for a tour of Qiandao Lake. On the way we stopped and picked up our English speaking guide who introduced herself as "Nancy, Call Me Nancy".

According to "Call Me Nancy", her parents lost their jobs when she was very young, and she had to quit school. She apologized for her English and said she was self-taught from her dictionary. She then asked us if we'd like her to sing a song... in Chinese or in English... she had me going, so I chose Chinese! And that was our introduction to Qiandao Lake!
"Call Me Nancy" did provide us with some helpful information. Qiandao Lake is the result of the Chinese government's program to create hydro electric power. In 1957, Zhou En Lai visited Chunan and told the people that creating a dam was important for the good of the people. In 1959, the first hydro electric project was underway. A dam was built which caused the Yan ?? River to back up and eventually flood a huge expanse of what was once many villages, displacing over 290,000 inhabitants.
Today, this area has turned into a huge tourist attraction for Chinese visitors. Qiandao means 1000 islands and this is exactly what we saw when we reached the water. More accurately, these islands are the tips of the many hills and mountains that surrounded the villages when the flooding occurred. According to Call Me Nancy, it would take 7 days in a boat to travel around the entire lake. It is 400 feet deep and 270 square kilometers.
As visitors enter the large ticket area, they are given a blank key chain with a place for a photo. Almost immediately, "Call Me Nancy" led us to a photo op area explaining that we would get a free photo for our key chain and could buy a larger one if we liked it! Then it was onto one of many large ferries waiting in the harbor. There was a slight fiasco as we entered the cabin. Many people were already seated, and there was not a block of open seats for our group. "Call Me Nancy" started yelling at some woman who worked on the ship and before I knew it, a family that was already seated was being asked to move. Needless to say, it was embarrassing and I wanted to tell them to stay where they were, but once the process started, there was no turning back! I think the family and some others were told they could be seated in the air conditioned section upstairs. Eventually, they reappeared and sat right across from us, so it all worked out!
Weather was very warm and hazy... the shadows of mountains behind mountains in varying shades of grey were beautiful. I think often of Kathy and know how she could capture these scenes with her brushes!

Our first stop was an island with an incredible view of many of the islands!
After disembarking, "Call Me Nancy" strongly encouraged us to pay 40 RMB to ride the chair lift up and down the mountain. She said that if we walked we would only see trees and with the chair lift, we would be at the top in 10 minutes! Before we knew it, she had purchased the lift tickets. Greg and Elizabeth didn't want the tickets and chose to walk up... the rest of us got into the line. Well the ride might take 10 minutes, but the wait in the line was close to an hour. By then, Elizabeth and Greg had been enjoying the view on top for 20 minutes! It was Tracy's first chair lift ride which was worth something. At the top, the view was spectacular. We were there long enough to take some photographs and a group shot before walking down!! "Call Me Nancy" led the way!

The second island was something out of a bad dream! Called Snake Island, need I say more! For every 30 RMB collected by a worker, visitors can watch as a mouse is thrown into the pit and consumed! (I didn't watch). Also, for 20 RMB, you can see a show in which 'Lady Boys'(transvestites from Thailand) do tricks with snakes around their necks! (I didn't go!) Then, in order to get back to the pier, we had to walk through a long, rather dark and damp tunnel. "Call Me Nancy" said that in the evenings it is full of snakes as they like the cool and damp and they hang from the rafters. ( I walked through this area very quickly and did not look to the right, nor to the left!) Ask me if I was having fun on Snake Island. Before getting back on the ship, we could touch a large boa (no charge), but if you wanted a photo with the boa, there was a fee! ( I did not touch nor have my photo taken with the boa!)
With all this island hopping, we had really built up a large appetite.
Now, lunch on the ferry is no simple affair! Tracy had 400 RMB's to spend for the 8 of us (about $66.00), and as she reminded us, "food on the ship is expensive." Well, the specialty of the area is Fish Head Soup.

In addition to this delicacy, we had a plate of cucumbers, a dish of tasty tofu (I'm developing an appreciation for tofu... I know what I'm eating!!), some kind of chicken soup with black mushrooms, a dish of sautéed bamboo shoots and a plate of cooked cabbage. By now you know that food in China tastes better with a swig of beer. As I reached with my chopsticks to grab a morsel of fish head, I knocked over my bottle and poor Elizabeth got a bit of a beer bath! She was kind and said it felt cool on her leg! Tracy who was eating with her back to the window, periodically climbed out to reenter the cabin from the other side, so she could get some of the fish head soup. The most succulent morsel is inside the head, and she didn't want it to go to waste. Suddenly Sally started laughing because she generally looks on the bright side and is very good at finding the humor in most situations! The whole scene was like out of some crazy movie! We were all so hot and sticky and the plastic table cloth was covered with spilled beer and fish head soup... It was at that moment that I excused myself and climbed out of the window. With what little beer remained in my bottle, I headed to the upper deck to see if I couldn't catch a bit of a breeze!

We still had one island to go. If you are still reading, know that the third stop was an island to honor a City Magistrate Huy Rui from the Ming Dynasty. People loved him because he was humble and shared their 'rough' food. He was "incorruptible". Lots of beautiful bamboo forest. "Call Me Nancy" told us that bamboo trees grow one meter per day!!
The return trip to the harbor was uneventful. We picked up the photos for our keychains, and the photographers were disappointed when we didn't buy any additional photos! Lots of vendors line the street that takes you back to the parking lot. On the bus ride into town, "Call Me Nancy" sang us a farewell song, this time in English! We were not sad to say goodbye and eager to be on our way to Suzhou... a 5 hour bus ride!
It is now 10:20 pm and Elizabeth and I are glad to be in our room. We've eaten another interesting meal and are calling it a day!
Whew... had I to do it again, I would skip Quandao Lake!
Zai Xian!
Joan
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